ATM 107 The Oceans

Ch. 10 – The Waves

Friday, 6 November 2015

Daily Announcements:

1) Exam #2 grades are posted on Blackboard.

2) Monday, Nov. 9, is the last day to drop any course with a “W”.

Song #1: “Calypso” by John Denver

Song #2: “Because We Can” by Bon Jovi

Text Source Today: 10.6*, 10.7

* excluding the sub-section “Episodic Waves”; to be discussed in detail later

· Wave Interference

· Wave Height Notes Template

· Wave Energy PDF DOC

· Wave Steepness

· Shallow Water Waves

o Refraction

o Reflection

o Diffraction

Study Guide Material (Stacey’s Guide) :

1) What happens when waves are “in phase” and “out of phase?”

2) “Wave height” is dependent on what three factors?

3) What is meant by “significant wave height?”

4) “Wave energy” is directly proportional to what?

5) Define “wave steepness.” What steepness ratio will cause a “wave to break?”

6) Define a “shallow water wave” and what happens to the water particle

motion as the waves “feel the bottom.”

7) How are “wave rays” refracted along a regular and irregular coastline?

8) How does the reflection of “wave rays” cause “choppy seas?”

9) When do “wave rays” undergo diffraction? What causes the “diffraction?”

10)How did “ancient mariners” navigate between islands?